Cold weather RV living creates an interesting little contradiction.

You spend all fall trying to keep cold air out of the RV.

Then winter arrives and you start plugging in heaters, running the furnace, insulating windows, protecting plumbing, closing drafts, adding blankets, and generally turning your RV into the warmest little box you can manage.

Which is exactly when you also need to think about fire, electricity, propane, carbon monoxide, ventilation, and emergency exits.

Warm is good.

Warm without accidentally creating a completely different emergency is better.

This is Part 2 of our Cold Weather RV Series. If you haven’t already prepared your RV itself for freezing temperatures, start with Living in an RV This Winter? Start Preparing Before the First Freeze. Read Part 1: RV Winter Preparation for Full-Time Living

Now let’s talk about staying warm safely.

First: Keep the Cold Out So You Don’t Have to Fight It So Hard

One of the safest ways to make an RV easier to heat is to reduce the amount of heat escaping in the first place.

Cold air tends to find every weak point an RV has.

Windows.

Roof vents.

Entry doors.

Slide areas.

The windshield of a motorhome.

Plumbing openings.

And sometimes one mysterious draft that apparently has its own forwarding address.

Before adding more heaters, look at the places where you’re losing heat.

Depending on your RV and climate, useful options can include:

• RV vent pillows
• removable window insulation
• thermal curtains
• windshield insulation for motorhomes
• weatherstripping around doors
• insulated skirting or underpinning
• rugs over particularly cold flooring

If you’re using Reflectix or another reflective insulation product, remember that the product’s performance depends on how it is installed. Simply sticking reflective material everywhere does not automatically turn your RV into a thermos.

Also, do not cover appliance vents, furnace exhausts, combustion-air openings, or other exterior openings required by your RV or appliance manufacturer.

RV safety standards specifically address proper venting of fuel-burning and heat-producing appliances to the outside.

Insulate the RV.

Don’t suffocate it.

Those are two very different projects.

Space Heaters Are Useful. They Are Also High-Draw Appliances.

We use space heaters in our RV.

Many RV owners do.

They can be an efficient way to supplement the furnace, especially when electricity is included in a campground fee and you’re trying not to burn through propane at an alarming rate.

But this is one area where I do not recommend creative electrical engineering.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends keeping portable heaters at least three feet away from combustible materials, plugging electric space heaters directly into a wall outlet, and never plugging them into an extension cord or power strip. CPSC also says heaters should be turned off while sleeping. Read the CPSC’s current winter heating safety guidance

The U.S. Fire Administration gives the same three-foot-clearance guidance and recommends placing portable heaters on a solid, flat surface. See U.S. Fire Administration heating safety guidance

That three-foot space matters even more in an RV because we tend to have a spectacular quantity of stuff packed into a very small area.

Blankets.

Curtains.

Dog beds.

Furniture.

Clothing.

Paper.

And somehow at least three things sitting where nobody remembers putting them.

Keep them away from the heater.

Know What Else Is on That Circuit

A typical 1,500-watt space heater draws about 12.5 amps at 120 volts.

That’s a significant load.

Now imagine running the heater while somebody starts the microwave, induction cooktop, hair dryer, coffee maker, electric water heater, or another space heater.

This is where living in an RV becomes less “cozy winter cabin” and more “tiny electrical-management seminar.”

Know your RV.

Know whether you have 30-amp or 50-amp service.

Know which outlets share circuits.

And pay attention if a breaker starts tripping.

A breaker that repeatedly trips is not being dramatic.

It’s telling you something.

Your RV Furnace Still Has an Important Job

Electric heaters can make the living area comfortable, but your RV furnace may be doing something the portable heater isn’t doing:

heating areas where plumbing runs.

The exact design varies by RV, so know how yours is built.

If your tanks, pipes, utility bay, or underbelly depend on furnace heat, turning the furnace completely off because the living room feels warm can create an unpleasant surprise elsewhere.

Frozen plumbing has an extraordinary ability to make you forget how much money you saved on propane.

If you’re unsure how your particular heating and plumbing systems interact, check your owner’s manual or talk with a qualified RV technician.

Protect the Plumbing Without Creating Another Hazard

Cold-weather plumbing protection can include:

• a heated fresh-water hose
• insulation around exposed plumbing
• tank-heating pads designed for RV use
• controlled heat in the utility or wet bay
• insulated skirting around the RV
• temperature sensors in vulnerable areas

The goal is not to make the wet bay tropical.

The goal is simply to keep vulnerable components safely above freezing.

If you use a heater or heating device in a utility bay, it needs to be a product appropriate for that location and installed according to its manufacturer’s instructions.

Do not improvise with an ordinary space heater wedged between plumbing, wiring, plastic tanks, hoses, and insulation.

That sentence should not need to exist.

And yet, here we are.

Smoke, Carbon Monoxide and Propane Detectors Are Not Optional Winter Accessories

This is the part of winter preparation that isn’t particularly glamorous.

Nobody stands in the RV aisle admiring a carbon monoxide detector.

But these are some of the most important pieces of equipment in your RV.

Current RV industry standards address:

• smoke alarms
• carbon monoxide detectors
• propane detectors
• fire extinguishers
• emergency exits

RVIA’s inspection materials specify smoke alarms listed for RV use, carbon monoxide detectors where required, and propane detectors in units equipped with propane systems.

Before heating season:

Test them.

Check their expiration or replacement dates.

Replace batteries where applicable.

And if the detector itself has reached the end of its service life, replace the detector.

Do not assume that because the little light is glowing, the device is still within its rated lifespan.

Proper Placement of RV Safety Detectors:

Propane detector: low on the wall, generally 4–20 inches above the floor, near potential propane leak sources.
CO detector: near the sleeping area, at the height specified by the manufacturer. If it is a combined CO/LP detector, install it low according to the propane-placement instructions.

Carbon Monoxide Deserves Its Own Section

Carbon monoxide is colorless and odorless.

You cannot rely on yourself to smell it.

Fuel-burning appliances and generators make this especially important during cold weather, when an RV is likely to be closed tightly.

The CDC warns that carbon monoxide can build up inside homes, garages, and campers, especially when alternative heating or power sources are used. Read CDC carbon monoxide safety guidance

Possible symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning can include headache, dizziness, weakness, nausea, vomiting, chest pain, and altered mental status.

If a CO alarm sounds, get everyone, including pets, into fresh air and follow emergency instructions rather than assuming the detector is malfunctioning.

Winter is not the time for, “It’s probably fine.”

Generator Safety: Exhaust Has to Stay Away From the RV

A generator can be incredibly valuable during a winter power outage.

It can also create a deadly carbon monoxide hazard when operated improperly.

The CDC says portable generators should be operated outside and more than 20 feet from windows, doors, and vents. CDC Generator Safety Fact Sheet

Never run a portable generator:

• inside the RV
• inside an enclosed RV storage area
• inside a garage
• under an enclosed structure where exhaust can accumulate
• next to an open window, door, or RV vent

If you’re using a generator during bad weather, don’t solve the rain problem by moving the generator someplace where you create a carbon monoxide problem.

The CDC specifically warns that generator exhaust can poison people and animals inside a camper.

For motorhomes with permanently installed generators, maintain the system properly and make sure exhaust is directed as designed and cannot enter the living space.

Remember that carbon monoxide does not have to come from your own RV. Generator or engine exhaust from a neighboring campsite can drift toward open windows, doors, and vents, so be aware of what is operating around you as well as what is operating on your own site.

Keep Campfires Away From Propane Tanks and Cylinders

A cozy campfire belongs at the campsite. It does not belong beside your RV’s propane supply.

Propane cylinders and tanks should be kept away from open flames, sparks, and other ignition sources. The Propane Education & Research Council also recommends keeping the area around propane tanks and grills clear of combustible materials. Propane

When choosing where to place a campfire, look beyond where the chairs fit best. Consider:

• where your RV’s propane tank or cylinders are located
• where neighboring RV propane tanks are located
• whether sparks or embers could blow toward either RV
• nearby awnings, outdoor rugs, furniture, dry vegetation, or stored fuel
• campground fire-ring placement and campground rules

Do not move a portable propane cylinder closer to a fire for convenience, and do not build or use a fire near an RV-mounted propane tank.

If the campground’s fire ring is positioned uncomfortably close to your propane system, skip the fire or ask whether another location is allowed. The fire ring being there does not magically make the laws of combustion take the evening off.

Let’s Talk About Those Fire-Extinguisher Balls

You may have seen automatic fire-extinguisher balls marketed for kitchens, garages, RVs, workshops, and other small spaces.

The concept sounds fantastic.

Put the ball near a potential fire source and, theoretically, it activates when exposed to flames.

Unfortunately, there is a significant safety problem here.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission has warned consumers not to purchase or use Elide fire-extinguishing balls because they may fail to extinguish a fire and could expose people to burns or smoke inhalation. Read the CPSC Elide fire-extinguisher-ball warning

CPSC has issued similar warnings for several other brands of fire-extinguisher balls previously sold online. See the broader CPSC fire-extinguisher-ball warning

CPSC recommends purchasing conventional fire extinguishers that meet applicable UL safety standards.

So despite how appealing the automatic-fireball idea sounds, I would not rely on one as RV fire protection.

This is one of those times when the interesting gadget loses to the boring piece of proven safety equipment.

Boring wins.

Check Your Fire Extinguisher Too

Don’t stop at simply owning one.

Know:

• where your extinguisher is
• whether it is accessible
• whether it is within its service life
• whether everyone in the RV knows where it is and how to use it
• whether you can reach it without moving toward the fire

RVIA’s inspection information includes portable fire-extinguisher requirements as part of RV life-safety standards.

And remember:

A fire extinguisher is meant for a small, manageable fire when you have a clear escape route.

It is not a challenge to see whether you can save the RV.

People and pets come first.

Get out.

Know How You’re Getting Out

Cold weather adds clutter surprisingly fast.

Coats.

Shoes.

Blankets.

Pet supplies.

Space heaters.

Holiday decorations.

Extra propane gear.

Suddenly the emergency exit you technically have is buried behind half of December.

Keep pathways clear.

Know your RV’s primary and secondary escape routes.

RV industry standards specifically include emergency-egress requirements as part of fire and life safety.

If you haven’t looked at your emergency window in years, this is an excellent time to identify it and understand how it opens.

Nobody wants the first practice run to happen while something is actually on fire.

If small-space organization is already a challenge in your RV, you may also find these ideas useful: 10 RV Organization Ideas for Small Spaces That Actually Make Life Easier

Winter Moisture Is a Different Kind of Problem

When you seal drafts and keep an RV warm, you can also trap moisture.

People breathe.

Pets breathe.

Cooking produces moisture.

Showers produce quite a lot of it.

Cold exterior walls and windows give that warm interior moisture somewhere to condense.

That’s why winter RV living can produce wet windows, damp cabinets, moisture beneath mattresses, and eventually mold or mildew.

Watch areas that don’t get much airflow:

• behind furniture
• inside exterior-wall cabinets
• beneath mattresses
• around windows
• inside closets
• behind cushions

A small dehumidifier can help, depending on your climate and RV.

Under-mattress airflow products can also help where condensation tends to collect beneath a mattress. We also have a moisture-proof mattress protector.

And yes, sometimes you actually need to ventilate the RV briefly even though you’ve spent considerable effort keeping cold air outside.

RV living occasionally has a sense of humor.

Skirting Helps, but Don’t Create a Sealed Hazard Zone

RV skirting or underpinning can significantly reduce cold air moving beneath an RV and can make it easier to protect tanks and plumbing.

But skirting should not interfere with:

• appliance vents
• exhaust outlets
• generator exhaust
• propane equipment
• required combustion-air openings
• emergency access

Don’t assume tighter is automatically better.

If you’re installing a manufactured skirting system, follow its instructions along with your RV and appliance requirements.

Have a Power-Outage Plan Before You Need It

Cold-weather emergencies become much harder when you’re inventing the plan after the campground power disappears.

Think through:

How will we stay warm?

How will we protect the plumbing?

How will we power essential medical or electrical equipment?

Do we have enough propane?

Can we safely operate our generator?

Are flashlights charged and accessible?

Where will the pets stay warm?

The CDC recommends flashlights or battery-powered lighting rather than candles during outages because candles introduce another fire hazard.

Sometimes the safest cold-weather decision is also knowing when the RV cannot safely maintain adequate heat.

There is no trophy for winning a standoff with a winter storm.

Our Cold-Weather RV Safety Checklist

Before temperatures drop, I want these things handled:

• Test smoke alarms.
• Test the carbon monoxide detector.
• Test the propane detector.
• Check the fire extinguisher.
• Identify both emergency exits.
• Inspect space-heater cords and plugs.
• Keep heaters three feet from combustible materials.
• Plug space heaters directly into appropriate outlets.
• Check furnace operation.
• Confirm propane supply.
• Protect exposed water lines.
• Monitor vulnerable plumbing areas.
• Check heated hose and tank-heating equipment.
• Keep generator exhaust safely away from the RV.
• Check weatherstripping and obvious drafts.
• Inspect areas prone to condensation.
• Keep emergency pathways free from winter clutter.
• Test electric blankets before you need them and check the cords for integrity.

None of these things individually feels particularly dramatic.

That’s the point.

Safety is usually a collection of boring little decisions made before they become exciting.

And in an RV, boring is underrated.

Warm Is the Goal. Safe and Warm Is the Standard.

Cold-weather RV living is completely manageable for many of us.

But heating a small space requires a little more attention because everything is closer together.

The heater is closer to the furniture.

The electrical system has limits.

The propane system is part of your living space.

The plumbing is exposed to conditions a house rarely sees.

And your entire home can be only a few feet from the source of a problem.

So prepare for winter.

Block the drafts.

Protect the plumbing.

Use the furnace.

Supplement the heat when appropriate.

Pile on the blankets.

Drink something warm.

Make the RV cozy.

Just don’t let “cozy” override the systems designed to keep everyone inside that RV alive and safe.

Because the goal is not simply to survive winter in an RV.

The goal is to be sitting there warm in February, drinking coffee, complaining about the electric bill, and wondering when spring is finally going to show up.

That’s a much better ending.

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Continue the Cold Weather RV Series

If you haven’t completed your basic winter preparation yet, start here:

Living in an RV This Winter? Start Preparing Before the First Freeze

And if winter gear is beginning to take over every available inch of your RV:

10 RV Organization Ideas for Small Spaces That Actually Make Life Easier

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Safety note: This article provides general educational information based on our RV experience and publicly available safety guidance. RV systems, electrical capacities, propane systems, generators, furnaces, and plumbing configurations vary considerably. Follow the instructions for your specific RV and equipment, and consult a qualified RV technician, electrician, propane professional, or other appropriate professional when needed.